Hotel Indigo No Go

Monday, September 16, 2019

Vacationland! Getting Sane in Maine

Photos by H. Darr Beiser


Home sweet home for a week, Bar Harbor

 

Cousin Zandy
We started in Portland to see my second cousin Alexander Clark who goes by Zandy. We share a great fondness for and interest in genealogy, particularly the Warren ancestors. Warrens are good old New England Yankees, or at least they were until my grandfather married my grandmother, Kate Goldberg, who became the great Pascia Warren, of whom legends are made.  Zandy remembers her as being a great conversationalist, a woman of strong opinions, who wore “striking clothing.” That was worth the trip right there. We had a lot to talk about. More later.

With Zandy,  Eastern Promenade, Portland


We tried our first airbnb, because the prices of hotels in sleepy little Portland show that Portland has woken up, thanks in part to cruise ships bringing in people who want to come back for a longer stay. Zandy gave us the most comprehensive tour of Portland I have ever had and I’ve been there hundreds of times.

Falmouth Foreside
Our airbnb was a lovely old house in Falmouth Foreside.  The bedroom was very charming and comfy. According to information in the room, the sheets had been ironed and dried in the fresh air.  I guess we both have to get used to the fact that the second B in airbandb does not mean breakfast. The hunter and gatherer, Darr, scored at the excellent European Bakery. The official state berry is featured in scones and muffins, in pancakes, coffee and even beer. It’s wise to bring a teeth whitener to Maine unless you want to turn blue.

Stop here!


Then we drove up to Bar Harbor via Route One, the slow roll right along the Maine coast. There was a giant duck boot in Freeport that prohibits you from proceeding until you go to LL Bean and shop. We were there during the hunting expo, so we headed straight for the safety of flannel-lined clothes.  We enjoyed some coffee at the store’s cafĂ© brewed, no doubt, from “LL” beans.

Camden

We stopped in Camden, the sweet picture postcard harbor of a town to eat lobster rolls at Mariners Restaurant. The town was buzzing with callous sophisticates sporting All Access badges for the  Camden International Film Festival. Who knew?

Route One


We checked in to our oceanfront cottage called Ocean Breeze in Bar Harbor. It has an absolutely panoramic view of the Eastern Bay. On the first day the sea was gray and depressed, but since it has sparkled like a shining optimist.

The obligatory cottage puzzle


Our first hike in Acadia National Park was the four-mile round trip Ocean Path. This would have been impossible last summer when we had the Millennial Men with us who  insisted on hiking only the moderate to difficult to impossible trails. It was lovely. It was essence of Maine, Maine concentrate. 

 Ocean Path, Acadia

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