(Mexico Part II) R and R in the Riviera: Andaz Mayakoba Resort

Andaz Maykoba 

From Mexico City we flew to Cancun and headed south on the Yucatan Peninsula to spend six nights at the Andaz Maykoba resort. There was quite a high contrast in going from the gritty city to the glitzy resort. 

Upon arrival in the Andaz Mayakoba lobby, which they insist on calling the Sanctuary, we did not find peace, but a gentle sales pitch to upgrade the room. From there on, they pamper you, drive you around, speak to you in English, and often remind you to “just dial zero” for anything you want or need. Zero is the “your wish is our command” hotline. 

The Andaz is one of four luxury resorts on a 595-acre piece of property called Mayakoba, built in 2008. The developers pummeled this limestone mass into a perfect environment for tourists. Tennis courts, archery, pickleball, pools, spas, beach clubs and golf clubs, residences.

Our room was near the beach. Soft sea air, cool breezes, the place where you learn that the ocean blues in  ads for the Caribbean have not been put through a filter. The water is very warm. The weather is warm. The only resort requirement is to lie around on comfortable lounges on the beach, and order drinks and food. Three of my favorite words "Beach Lunch Menu.” 

At Coba with Jorge

We were on a strict schedule of grind and unwind. We still had many pyramid schemes to uncover and we were set to go on two private tours, one to to Coba and Tulum, and another to the grandest pyramid scheme of all, the Bernie Madoff of sites, Chichen Itza. 

Nohoch Mul the highest pyramid in Coba

We loved our guide Jorge, from Living Dream Tours, who took us to Coba and Tulum. I sat in front of the car with him because my seat belt didn't work, and practiced my Spanish. I took a Spanish Intermediate  class on Great Courses, and filled in with Duolingo. It was helpful. English translations in museums are spotty at best. Jorge learned English by watching hundreds of English movies with Spanish subtitles, until one day he didn’t need the subtitles. Coba, an ancient Mayan city in the forest built around lakes, was one of the few archeological sites we saw that hadn’t been fully commercialized. To cover the large area we were driven in a “tricycle” while Jorge biked next to us. Jorge is relieved that tourists are no longer allowed to climb the pyramids. He spent much of his time cringing and worrying. 

Tulum

Onto the gorgeous seaside ruins at Tulum which was night and day from Coba in term of crowds and commercialization. Darr had been there years ago when you could drive right up and take a photo of the pyramids. But no mas, massive parking lots, steep ticket prices, long lines. The Mayan dancers had a “pet” boa constrictor nearby, and there was a man with a mono on his shoulder, whom you could pay for your monkey-business selfie. 

Back at the resort, we took a boat ride on the lagoon, I had a massage at the lovely Naum spa. Each of the massage rooms has a private patio, where you can sit afterwards and think about how relaxed you are. We took a walk on the two-mile “Nature Trail” which provided a sense of the scope of the property. Along the way there a staff member who showed us the habitat of the Melipona bees, tiny little stingless things who live in little hives and produce just one liter of honey a year. Then the staff member took us underground to see a “cenote.” I had never heard of them before this trip. They are absolutely magical bodies of fresh water inside a limestone cave. Over time the limestone roof caves in, exposing a clear cool pool or cenote.

After our final tour to Chichen Itza we stopped at the Chakum Cenote and it was my favorite experience of the trip. Ethereal, spiritual, refreshing, delightful, otherworldly. Underground you enter a cool dark world, offering relief from the Mexico heat, and have a magical float. 

Chichen Itza

Valladolid, buyers beware

It’s a schleppe to Chichen Itza, almost three hours from the hotel and our tour guide Uri seemed to rush us through it, telling us not to buy anything there because he was taking us to Ek Zaci in Valladolid where everything was “authentic.” No pressure to buy he says as he leaves us at the store. But there was a salesman who followed my every step and did pressure me to buy. Read the Yelp reviews and watch out. Then we patronized the restaurant where the Living Dreams tour guides hang out Paladar de Cura.  Darr was enouraged to have the cochinita ,which was just an unadorned pile of dry pork. I had ordered a cheese chile relleno, but got meat. Uri ordered a club sandwich with fries, what does that tell you?

And we spent our final day resorting to resorting. A note on the food, once you are at the Andaz you are sort of trapped. I say sort of, because you can get a ride to any one of the other four resorts and eat at their restaurants. We did this on Valentine’s Day—La Laguna at the Fairmont and the setting, on a platform on the water, and the food was exceptional. But it involves taking a golf cart to the lobby and then taking an SUV to another resort. A little too much effort for resort life.

Valentine's Day dinner at La Laguna

Windy dinner at Sotovento

From then on we ate at “on campus” restaurants only, the oceanfront Sotovento where the motto is "shoes,  no service." The tables are in the sand and they serve fabulous grilled fish. We ate a few times at Tinta del Pulpo, for breakfast and dinner.   You have to love a place with octopus tacos on the menu. And we had one night of bad service Cocina Milagro,  which inexplicably features an Asian dinner menu.

 

The day of the iguana

I highly recommend Andaz Mayacoba. We staged our vacation with city followed by beach. It's a bit of culture shock after coming from the full authenticity of Mexico City to an American owned resort. But I loved being in the jungle, experiencing the tropics, seeing fearless iguanas laze around the place, and seeing birds of a different colored feather. And the cenotes alone are worth the trip.

So long ocean breezes and octopus tacos!