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| Celebrated photographer H. Darr Beiser, Chalma River, NM |
The first night we had a fabulous dinner at Los Poblanos. As our friend said, “most of New Mexico is like a third world country, but at the restaurant you’ll feel like you’re in Europe.” Indeed. We enjoyed octopus tostados and carrot cavatelli with lemon chicken sausage, green chile cream, charred carrots and chicken-skin bread crumbs. We sat outside and were expecting a fiery Southwest sunset, but as it turns out, Albuquerque’s Sandia Mountains (watermelon) only “turn pink” and at that “only some nights.” It was not a pink night for us. Score one for Tucson in the race against Albuquerque.
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| Darr and Ned stroll along the “acequia” (aka ditch), Abuquerque, NM |
On the drive to Northern New Mexico we did what countless photographers and photo lovers have done—veered suddenly off the road to look for the location where Ansel Adams took the famous Moonrise Hernandez photograph. There's been a great deal of development since 1941, and the moon wasn’t out, but as Barney would exhort our children we "used our imaginations."
The winds were so strong on the drive that we had many near encounters with tumbling tumbleweeds, and the rental car thought Darr was drunk or tired because he was weaving so much. The car “said” ‘pull over and rest for a while.’
We had lunch at Rancho de Chimayo. It had all the hallmarks of a good Mexican food restaurant in a sprawling hacienda and our mouths were watering. The chips and guacamole were so good, but the true test came when I was served an over-battered chile relleno. I could have sued the chef for battery on this poor chile.
Did you know New Mexico is the only state that has a state question? The question is “red or green?” Referring to your choice of chile with your meal. If you choose both they call it Christmas.
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| Santuario de Chimayo, Chimayo, NM |
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| Kitchen Mesa, Ghost Ranch, NM |
We then drove to the Ghost Ranch. This is 21,000 acres of amazement. There are two mesas, Kitchen Mesa and Orphan Mesa, and land, lots of land. There are cabins scattered around for guests, an art center, a labyrinth, and small cottages for artist retreats. We had the place to ourselves which is always a staggering phenomenon of the Southwest. I'd try to describe the colors, but let's hear it from Georgia O'Keefe who lived there: "All the earth colors of the painter's palette are out there in the many miles of badlands. The Naples yellow through the ochres - orange and red and purple earth, even the soft earth greens."
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| Orphan Mesa, Ghost Ranch, NM |
The New Mexico mountains are astounding. They look like aggressive bully rocks that emerged from the earth and said, “this is it, we’re staying.” Many of them have beautiful striations representing their glacial beginnings.
The no-nonsense winds knocked out the power at our hotel, the Abiquiu Inn, just when it was time for dinner. We had to drive into nearby Espanola for dinner at Mariscos La Playa. A simple translation of the restaurant's name should have told us to stay away. “Seafood at the beach.” I may not be strong in geography, but I am quite sure New Mexico has neither a beach nor seafood. It was the first time I’ve seen calamari presented as fish sticks.
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| Pueblo Bonito, Chaco Canyon, NM |
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| Pueblo Alto Complex, Chaco Canyon, NM |
Our next destination was Chaco Canyon, so we parted from our hosts and went on a beautiful drive from Abiquiu. Small run down houses and trailers have views to die: for the rugged, sandy, peachy mountains, with the dramatic mesa Pedernal in the distance. The entrance to Chaco is 13 miles of rugged dirt roads, but once you get there, this National Historic Park is well organized and astounding. This massive construction, built 1100 years ago was a cultural center and trading network for the Chacoan people. Much of it remains in pristine condition. You can walk around the "Great Houses," (multi-story stone buildings) and into rooms, plazas and amphitheaters. But anthropologists never found any evidence of long term habitation. It may have been used in religious ceremonies, as a trading center, for turquoise and cacao from as far away as Mexico. It's spooky and cool. The wind was so strong there that I finally understood the Irish prayer about the wind being at your back.
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| Horned furniture and Burt Lancaster |
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| Lobby, El Rancho Hotel, Gallup NM |
We stopped overnight in Gallup to break up the drive to Tucson. We booked a funky hotel
called the Hotel El Rancho touted as the home of movie stars when they were filming in New Mexico. Well maybe so, but that was a long time ago and the faded photographs show and faded careers. The lobby is interesting but the rooms...We booked a king suite and they put us in the bridal suite, an inexplicable connection of two bedrooms, with a 1950’s kitchen in the middle, and only one bathroom. There were bottle openers nailed to the walls, and that was what was most important. The “balconies” looked onto an empty swimming pool and Route 66.
We had to make three stops before finding a restaurant that was open for dinner. The good people of Gallup can’t wait to gallup home. We arrived at two restaurants before their closing time, but they decided to close anyway. Panz Allegra (translation happy stomach) was open. Darr’s stomach was happy with his meal but mine was not. The chicken in my tacos seemed to have just come out of the freezer.
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| Best Mexican food in NM, Gallup |
Fourth Mexican restaurant in New Mexico was a charm. Breakfast at Gordo's Cafe. I ordered an omelet, and the waitress adorably asked me if it was okay that my meal did not include meat! A question not posed at a vegan/vegetarian restaurant. Darr had chorizo and eggs, the red and the green (Christmas!) were plentiful and powerful.
Then we left the Land of Enchantment for the Enchanting Land of Tucson and everything was set right food wise. Dinner at El Torero, divine, divinity, nectar of gods. Casa Molina for one lunch and Rosa’s for lunch. Tortillas from St. Mary’s. Two good non-Mexican meals: big salads at Noble Hops, and a big family lunch at Cafe a la C'Art, the tortured name based on the restaurant's proximity to the Tucson Museum of Art.
We stayed at The Doubletree Reid Park which was in top form. The orange trees were blooming, and the air was more fragrant than a Bloomingdales perfume counter. The weather was perfect, we used the pool and the hot tub, and breakfasted on our patio. It wasn’t hot and it wasn't crowded. Note to future guests, avoid room 118. It's right next to an iron gate that clangs loudly every time it opens and closes.
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| Celebrating with sister Margie after Darr's Hall of Fame induction |
The main event was Darr’s coronation, I mean inauguration, to the University of Arizona Journalism Department Hall of Fame. The event was lovely with brunch outside and a well organized ceremony. Fitz, the cartoonist for the Arizona Daily Star, was the star of the show. He was like a stand-up comedian, but he also stood up for the First Amendment.
We have known him since we were on the college newspaper. We formed lots of friendships in our 20s. And many of these friendships started at the University of Arizona, where journalism professors helped us find jobs, where we walked from class to class in warmth and sun. And here we were back on the campus that shaped our lives and determined our careers.
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| With David Fitzsimmons, fellow U of A alum, at HOF ceremony |
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| Too, too, too. Two saguaros, Tumamoc Hill, Tucson |
